IT’S NOT MY FIRST RODEO Why Hiring an Experienced Designer Makes Good Sense

I don’t think that toddler growing up in New Jersey ever imagined that I would move out West—much less become an architect.

But here I am, celebrating 47 years of residential remodeling in Denver, my adopted city.

Over that time, I’ve successfully completed more than 550 projects, remodeling just about every kind of home Denver has to offer: Log Cabins, Victorians, Bungalows, Colonial Revivals, Tudor Revivals, Spanish Revivals, Ranches, Split Levels, “Moderns,” and even McMansions.

And here’s what I’ve learned:

Every house is different. And every client is, too.

The challenge—and the fun—is figuring out how to make the house you have work for the life you live today.

My job is to find the most cost-effective way to transform a home, whatever its age or architectural style, while respecting its character and staying within the client’s budget. That means helping homeowners make smart choices—choices that deliver the most value and the best possible return on their remodeling investment.

That’s what it’s all about.

EXPERIENCE MATTERS

When you’re choosing a designer, I believe experience should be high on the list.

Ideally, you want someone who has done it before—and, even better, someone who has done it before on a house like yours, not once, but multiple times.

You don’t want your home to be the project where your designer learns on the job.

Ask to see photographs. Ask for addresses. Look at projects involving homes of the same vintage and architectural style. Then really study them.

Does the addition announce itself from half a block away? Or does it feel like it belongs?

Can you immediately tell what’s new—or does it take a moment to figure it out? To me, that moment of uncertainty is a win. The best additions don’t try to outshine the original house. They understand it.

WALKING THE ARCHITECTURAL TIGHTROPE

My background in historic preservation has given me a particular appreciation for that balancing act. I also served three years as a Denver Landmark Commissioner, which gave me an even deeper understanding of the responsibility that comes with altering historic and architecturally significant homes.

In Denver’s Historic Districts, additions must adhere to the Secretary of the Interior’s Standards for Rehabilitation. Standard 9 calls for additions to be “compatible and differentiated”—in other words, they should respect the original architecture while still being identifiable as a contemporary addition.

That sounds simple.

It isn’t.

It’s an architectural tightrope: honor what was there, make it work for today, and know where to draw the line.

And honestly, I apply that same philosophy to any addition—not just those in historic districts.

I start by carefully studying the original home: its proportions, materials, details, scale, and architectural intent. Then I use those lessons as inspiration for the new work.

The goal isn’t to create a perfect imitation.

The goal is to create something new that feels right.

An addition that complements the original home without competing with it. Something that looks as though it belongs—but still tells you, if you look closely, that it’s of its own time.

47 YEARS. 550+ PROJECTS. AND STILL GETTING IT RIGHT.

After nearly five decades in the business, I’ve learned that good design isn’t about following a formula. It’s about knowing how to read a house, listen to a client, solve problems creatively, and make decisions based on experience.

That experience matters.

It’s reflected in the hundreds of homes I’ve worked on—and in recognition from the City of Denver, Historic Denver, and the National Trust for Historic Preservation.

So, when you’re considering a remodel or addition, remember:

You only get one chance to remodel your home.

Why make your house the place where someone else gets their experience?

It’s not my first rodeo. And that’s exactly why hiring an experienced designer makes good sense.

SIX TIPS FOR AGING IN PLACE SAFELY

According to the CDC, one in four Americans over 65 falls each year, and “unintentional falls are the leading cause of injury & deaths among adults 65 and over”.  Falls are common, costly, and often preventable. Falling is not inevitable. Thoughtful small home improvements can dramatically reduce the risks.

There are countless articles and books about universal design and home accessibility—but who has time to read them all? Here are six practical things you can start doing now to future-proof your home and make it safer and easier to live in as your mobility, vision, and strength naturally change.

Here are my top six:

1. SLIPPING & TRIPPING

Flooring plays a major role in home safety. Thick carpets can catch toes and walkers, loose area rugs can slip, and highly polished floors can become dangerously slick.

Cork Covered Flooring

I learned this firsthand while recovering from hip and knee replacements and using a walker. I found myself catching the walker on area rugs at least once or twice a day.

For anyone using a cane, crutches, walker, or wheelchair, aim for smooth, flat, even surfaces throughout the home—whether carpet, hardwood, LVT, or tile. With tile, avoid highly polished finish for floors. A slightly textured surface provides better grip, especially in kitchens and bathrooms.

When choosing bathroom or kitchen tile, I often run my fingers over it—and sometimes even add water—to see how slippery it becomes. Remember: soap and water can turn a marginally safe floor into a skating rink.

2. HOLD ON!

As we age, we naturally lose muscle mass and strength, particularly in our legs. (about 5% per decade after age 30).   That is one reason getting up from a chair or navigating stairs can become more difficult.

People often compensate by grabbing furniture, countertops, walls, and railings for stability, using their arms to supplement their legs.   Occupational therapists even look for handprints on walls as evidence of “wall walking.”

Good design can provide safer places to hold on. In addition to conventional railings, features such as substantial wainscot caps can provide a convenient handhold along a hallway.

But the most important handholds are assist bars—also called grab bars—especially in bathrooms, the most common location for falls in the home.

The best time to install grab bars is before you need them. Today, they can simply serve as towel bars or places to steady yourself when your hands are wet or your eyes are full of shampoo. If someone falls, they will instinctively reach for whatever is nearby, so I often install grab bars on solid wall blocking where towel bars would normally go.

Looking into Curbless Shower with Grab Bar

Grab bars no longer have to look institutional, either. They come in a wide range of styles, finishes, and designs. Some even double as toilet-paper holders or soap dishes, such as the ones in the “Invisia” line by Healthcraft.

Most importantly, provide easy-to-grip handrails on every staircase—preferably on both sides. For the stairs down into your garage, consider the cantilevered angled assist bars now available

3. LOW STEP / NO STEP

Every accessible home should have at least one—and preferably two—ways in and out without a step.

A step-free entry isn't just for wheelchair users. It makes life easier when you're carrying groceries, rolling a suitcase, pushing a stroller, or simply walking through the door without worrying about tripping.

The same principle applies inside the home. The shower curb is often one of the most dangerous step hazards. A typical shower curb can be three or four inches high, while stepping into a tub can mean navigating a 14- to 16-inch obstacle.

For many homeowners, converting a tub to a curbless, roll-in shower is one of the best aging-in-place improvements available. A properly designed curbless shower eliminates the step and can provide a single, gentle slope toward a linear drain, making the floor easier to stand on and reducing the chance of water escaping onto the bathroom floor.

4. GOING UP?

Stairs deserve special attention—particularly going down. A slip near the top of a staircase can result in serious injuries by the time someone reaches the bottom. (See “Beautiful Hazard” Professional Remodeler November 2018 / proremodeler.com)

Most homes have stairs somewhere: to the front door, between the garage and house, or between floors. Properly designed stairs can remain usable well into old age, but many residential stairs are built right at the limits allowed by code.

I prefer stairs with a lower rise and deeper tread because they are more comfortable and safer, especially for older adults and children. Where possible, particularly outdoors, I try to get the rise closer to six inches, not the 7 ¾” allowed by code

Properly Designed Stairs

If stairs eventually become difficult, there are several alternatives. Ramps are a simple solution, but they require much more space than most people realize. A standard ADA ramp has a 1:12 slope, meaning a 30-inch rise requires roughly 30 feet of ramp. So, for example, if you are building a ramp inside a typical garage, if your rise is more than 14 inches, you’ll need to build a landing and double the ramp back

Other options include platform lifts, stair lifts, and, when necessary, residential elevators. At the moment, I have two elevator projects in design right now for prior clients, one from 18 years ago, the other, 30 years.  The right solution depends on the home's layout, the height difference, available space, the homeowner's needs and budget. 

5. THE BETTER TO SEE YOU WITH

Good lighting is one of the simplest and most effective aging-in-place improvements.

As we age, our eyes need more light to see clearly, while glare becomes increasingly problematic. The goal is therefore more light with less glare. (See “Light That Sets Your Homes Apart” Professional Builder, August 2018)

More Light with Less Glare

Ideally, you shouldn't see the light source—you should see what the light is illuminating. Use shades on light fixtures, deeply recessed downlights where appropriate, and window coverings that allow you to control daylight throughout the day.

It's also easy to add lighting without major construction. Consider sconces, lamps, undercabinet lights and motion-sensor nightlights, particularly in hallways, bathrooms, and stairways.

Rocker-style light switches are easier to operate than traditional toggles and illuminated switches can make them easier to find at night. Motion-sensor switches are especially useful in bathrooms, laundry rooms, and garages where your hands may be full.

6. MAKE IT EASY ON YOURSELF

Smart-home technology can make aging in place easier without requiring major construction.

Voice assistants such as Siri and Alexa can answer questions, provide weather updates, turn lights on and off, adjust the thermostat, operate blinds, and perform countless other tasks. For someone with limited mobility, these conveniences can make a meaningful difference.

Wearable technology is another valuable tool, especially for people living alone. Smartwatches and medical-alert devices can detect falls or other emergencies and summon help. And unlike traditional medical-alert buttons, many modern devices look just like everyday watches.

For families helping older parents from a distance, technology can also provide peace of mind. With permission, motion or pressure sensors can indicate whether someone has gotten up and moved around the house. Cameras in appropriate common areas can provide additional remote monitoring.

For someone who is prone to wandering, tracking devices can also help caregivers locate them quickly.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Ultimately, the safest home is one that combines good design with good habits.

Even the best accessibility features can't compensate for being distracted, walking while looking at your phone, drinking too much, or getting out of bed at night without taking a moment to get your bearings.

Get up slowly. Keep pathways well lit. Stay physically active to maintain strength and balance. And design your home so that the safest choice is also the easiest choice.

Aging in place isn't about preparing for decline. It's about creating a home that evolves with you. Whether you make a few simple changes or undertake a major renovation, every improvement is an investment in comfort, independence, safety—and ultimately, in you.

Good Fences Make Good Neighbors

Before - Toppled Original

During - Required Full Excavation

After - A Good Fence the Neighborhood can be Proud Of

Poet Robert Frost once said, “Good fences make good neighbors.” He was probably thinking about wandering livestock — but in this case, the phrase applies beautifully to good design and a strong sense of place.

In Denver’s historic Country Club neighborhood, most homes are framed by elegant fences or walls that complement their architecture. The owners of this magnificent 1908 neoclassical home, designed by Frederick Sterner and George Williamson, wanted to do the same. The house itself features exquisite decorative brickwork and a stunning green glazed clay tile roof.

When a windstorm in 2012 toppled two of the original brick pillars supporting the iron fence around the backyard, the owners saw an opportunity. Instead of simply replacing what was lost, they asked if they could rebuild it as a privacy wall.

Working closely with the Denver Landmark Preservation Commission, we received approval to design a new wall inspired by a pattern from architect David Decker, known for his work at the Denver Country Club — every sixth brick course recessed by half an inch.

Fortunately, the brick used in 1908 still has a near-perfect match today: Ballpark Blend by General Shale. We tinted the mortar to match the original finish, ensuring a seamless connection between old and new.

A Return 13 Years Later

Thirteen years later, the homeowners came back with another idea: a matching retaining wall with decorative ironwork for the side and front of the home. Like many of their neighbors, they wanted a more formal edge — and they were tired of coaxing grass to grow on the sloped lawn that dropped nearly 30 inches from yard to sidewalk.

After a formal submission to the LPC, the design was approved — with one note of caution: “Don’t outshine the house.” A few thoughtful tweaks later, we had a plan that balanced elegance with restraint.

Built to Last

Every lasting wall begins with a solid foundation. For this one, that meant excavating three feet below grade for a reinforced concrete footer. Vertical and horizontal steel reinforcement tied the structure together, and once the concrete forms were stripped, masons began their precise work.

They laid the brick on cast ledges just below grade, topped with sandstone caps, while the ironworkers fabricated the custom fencing above. It might sound simple — but as the photos show, craftsmanship like this is anything but.

A Gift to the Street

To enhance the pedestrian experience, brick step lights were installed at each pillar, casting a warm downlight on the sidewalk throughout the night. Combined with post lights at the entry, the result is both beautiful and welcoming.

Neighbors have taken notice — many stop to compliment the owners as they tend their garden. It’s proof that thoughtful design not only preserves history but also enriches the everyday life of the community.

BATH OF A CERTAIN AGE

In this basic 5x8 bath in a 1980’s duplex, the owners, both in their late 70’s, wanted a redo that removed the tub and gave them a semi-accessible shower (they still insisted on  a curb). As they age, if more access is needed, the glass door will give way to a curtain, and a transfer bench provided to get into the shower.   

As they are both ambulatory, but with orthopedic challenges, we provide a variety of assistive hardware, starting outside the shower where the towel bar is actually an assist bar.  It is mounted on a decorative wood piece because we couldn’t put blocking behind the drywall, as a duct and plumbing vent were in the way. 

A vertical grab bar at the shower entry helps getting in, while a long horizontal on the back wall provides security while showering.  The slide bar for the hand held shower is also rated as an assist bar.  The first two bars are additionally knurled, which makes them non slip for wet or soapy hands.   

At the back of the shower a teak fold down seat is firmly mounted to blocking in the wall for use as needed.  Finally, a surface mounted soap dish and shampoo tray store needed accessories. 

Inspiration for the bath started when they found a rustic cabinet from Indonesia at a local showroom.  Given that the bath was already painted a dark brown, it started a discussion about a tribal design theme.  The owners had a prized African wood sculpture to add.  Then their daughter, an artist/social worker volunteered to paint an elephant on one wall, and a fantasy night forest on another. 

The lav is a hammered copper piece that was mounted above the low countertop, with the faucet and all hardware being black for contrast.  The extravagance in the bath was the Toto toilet with heated bidet seat, and amenity that most tribes do NOT have!

RECAP OF KBIS/IBS 2025

The highlight of the year is always the combined KBIS/IBS mega-show. This year

they claimed 120,000 visitors for both shows, but I think they count every

time you walk in the door. Since I attended for two days, the true count

might only be 119,999!

My show started off with attending the NKBA Design & Industry Awards,

which I helped judge. As it was a blind judging, it was terrific to finally meet

the authors of the winning kitchens and baths, and was delighted to find

that Denver’s own Gina D’Amore Bauerle took home Best of Show

Bathroom for a gorgeous powder, and a rather large check!

Pretty much every manufacturer of any product you can think of was there,

along with dozens you had no idea existed! It’s always fun to discover new

products you can specify in your remodels. I can’t possibly include them all

in one post, so there may be more. My tours of exhibitors was limited to

the impressive new West Hall, the North Hall, and the Central Hall, which is

undergoing a transformation to the entry to complement the West Hall’s

undulating roofline.

Any reaction to the show would have to start with Kohler and their many

brands, with the largest booth by far. It was so packed, I gave up after

seeing their new cold plunge tub. Not sure I’d want it, but for people who

do, Kohler has it!

Toto is the gold standard in water closets, and I was delighted to see them

offer shades other than white. They also have a robust line of tubs,

lavs, and faucets, which I haven’t fully explored.

Sierra Pacific was on my itinerary and I was amazed at how thin the frame

profiles could be in their H3 series; almost a steel sash lightness. Speaking

of lightness (or heaviness), NanaWall had an unbelievable 14 foot wide by

14 foot high! Slider. Boy, I’d hate to have to install that one.

Lighting is always on my tour, and I enjoyed some of the designer series

lights by Visual Comfort. At Hafele, Katie Mobley explained their latest LED

strip lighting. I was impressed with their system where the power strip is

routed into the shelf sides, and activates the strip lighting routed into the

bottom of the shelves (or tops, if used for uplighting). This is so much

better than the light strips routed into the sides, and glaring into your eyes!

She showed me how to adjust the color temperature to user preferences.

Spent a good amount of time at the Halo booth looking at their 2,3, and 4

inch lines with adjustable beam optics and color temps for future reference.

An award for best giveaway should go to Johns Mansville, for their

container of “edible insulation”, which I assume was cotton candy, but

wasn’t about to try, given that it looked identical to their blue fiberglass

displays adjacent!

Tiny Tudor Addition With a Big Impact!

What is the most appropriate addition for a tiny (869 s.f.) 1930’s Tudor Revival cottage in West Denver? More importantly, how much of an addition can our client afford? Fortunately, these two realities converged into this 14x24 foot addition, on two levels, that transformed the way the owners live.

The old kitchen, as was typical back then, was only 9x11 feet, and was bisected from traffic from the house to the basement stairs and backyard. Two small windows gave a peek of the side and back yard.

The new kitchen is 11x13 feet, and extends out from what was the old kitchen, now repurposed as a sunny bookcase flanked breakfast banquette, with a wall of white oak cabinetry that includes tall pantry cabinet and a beverage center with refrigerator. Traffic now bypasses the work triangle completely.  

A new deck flows out at the same level as the kitchen, making serving easy with no steps to navigate, and takes advantage of a previously underused side yard.

A half wall separates cooking from the step down cozy family room, just large enough for a comfy couch and coffee table facing the with a tall paneled fireplace/tv wall, with soaring windows facing the back.  Doors to the yard were provided from both the family room and kitchen.

In the old plan, the stairs down to the back door and on down to the basement were steep and unsafe, and landed just 20 inches from the outside basement wall. (Furniture moving was a challenge.) By stepping down the family room close to grade, we were able to use the same basement stair area for a gentler and far safer stair, hidden behind a half wall that serves as coat rack.

Both kitchen and family room benefit from the soaring 13- to 16-foot-high vaulted ceiling, punctuated a skylight on east and west that insure the space is bright, even on the gloomiest day. The addition was finished with cement board and batten siding, painted to match the bronze window cladding, with an accent panel of brick veneer salvaged from the demo of the old back wall on the backyard side. With R60 ceiling and R30 walls, as well as a sealed and insulted crawl space, this addition is far cozier in all seasons than the original all (uninsulated) brick home. It has its own thermostat controlling a mini split system for both winter and summer comfort.

Newly Renovated Kitchen

Kitchen Before

Dining and Storage Solutions

A New Deck Takes Advantage of Underutilized Outdoor Living Space

Concrete Thinking

I'm constantly amazed by the process of forming and pouring concrete foundations, like this one being built for an addition to a bungalow in Wheat Ridge, CO.  The forming crew has to build a plywood wall in which the concrete will go, only to tear it down once the concrete has initially set (as little as 24 hours, although it will take a month to reach full strength).  But before they can "button up" the forms, all the reinforcing steel rebar, both horizontally and vertically, has to be carefully placed and inspected.  The old concrete foundations for this 1926 home had no steel rebar at all!

When the area to be poured is behind a home, with no safe alley access, they bring in this amazing concrete pumper truck (on right), with an articulating boom, and the concrete mixing truck dumps the grey goop into the hopper to be pumped 100 feet or more . The boom operator controls this from a portable controller hanging from his neck. The lead worker on the concrete crew guides the long flexible hose to all portions of  the forms, while several assistants follow closely behind with an industrial-strength "spud vibrator" (looks like a potato on a cable) which  is pushed down to vibrate the liquid/cement mix so there are no air pocket voids.

The magical moment is a day or two later when the crew comes back and knocks the plywood forms apart, revealing a solid concrete wall, (shown above).  There is no other material we use that has that phase change property, and it never ceases to amaze me!  I'm glad I work in an area of the country that favors poured concrete foundations, as they are far superior to concrete block foundations that are used elsewhere.

Gloomy Outlook for Googie Landmark

A sign taped to the window of this quirky dry cleaners in Cherry Creek is the writing on the wall: "Application for Determination of Non Historic Status".  The land under the building is worth far more than the building itself in the developer's mind, and the block will soon have one more of the tower cranes that dot Cherry Creek North in it's race to resemble Manhattan.  And we'll lose another building from our more recent past.

This round building with the swooping parabolic roof was built in the late 50's or early 60's, and is quite representative of the "Googie" style of modern architecture, a futuristic architecture influenced by the car culture, jet airplanes, and the space age.  It originated in Southern California after WW2, when architects like John Lautner realized that the public was moving past the landscape at a much faster pace due to the automobile, and they needed buildings that could be"read " instantly for what they were.  So Googie style became the rage for car oriented building types like diners, gas stations, and motels.

The original McDonalds, with its giant golden arches, is classic Googie. In Denver,  Bastiens Steakhouse on Colfax, Sam's #3 at 1500 Curtis, and the Sleeper House by Charles Deaton, are all classic Googie, as was the I.M. Pei hyperbolic paraboloid in front of the May D& F, torn down in 1996. Influenced by the Streamline Moderne style of the 1930's, this style exploited upswept roofs, curves, and use of glass walls with aluminum and steel.

I'm just finishing my three year term on the Denver Landmark Preservation Commission, and one thing I've noticed is that we give most of our attention to pre war architecture, with little recognition of distinctive buildings from the 50's forward.  My fear is that until momentum builds towards appreciation of great designs from the 50's, 60's, 70's and newer, we will have lost most of them, like this one.  Is this building unique? No, I can show you a twin on West Jewell in Lakewood, and there are probably others I haven't found, but it was one of a kind where it was, in the upscale Cherry Creek neighborhood, and I'll miss it when it's gone.

CLAP ON! CLAP OFF! Simple Lighting Control

Remember that annoying tv advertisement for a sound activated light switch?  That’s certainly one way to control lights, as is the simple toggle switch.  But there are several others help you tailor your luminous environment to your mood and needs at that point in time.

First, if you are remodeling, or building new, consider adding more, rather than fewer lighting options to a space.  In important rooms like kitchens, dining rooms, living rooms, and family rooms, I like to suggest at least 4 and up to 6 circuits of lighting to choose from.  Make as many of those as you can on DIMMING switches, so you can adjust the level to the scene you are trying to set.  Dimmer switches are wonderful, and there are different types you can use, depending on your preference and manual dexterity.  Back in the 80’s, mostly what you saw were those clunky round rheostat knobs that you pressed for on and off.  Today, I much prefer what I call “fingernail slide dimmers” which are a miniature slide dimmer to the right of the toggle or rocker switch.

By capturing unused attic space over this 1960's kitchen, we were able to flood the room with daylight. At nights, 5 circuits of lighitng, all on dimmers, provides precise control.

Here’s a kitchen transformation we did recently on a 1960’s trilevel.  The first and most significant light(and the least expensive) comes from the four new skylights overhead. The light varies according to the season and the time of day.  Next, we added recessed downlights for task lighting at countertops.  Then undercabinet lights, on their own dimming circuit. Then we added track lighting, including pendant lights that add a decorative element as well as function. Finally, xenon mini lights behind a cove provide a wash up indirect uplighting. Again, all circuits are dimmable, so you can manipulate the scene in an almost unlimited variety.  There are switches at the entry from the garage, the entry from the dining room, and the entry from the backyard so you never have to stumble into the room in the dark.

One useful upgrade to such a system of 4 to 6 circuits is to collect them into a single box, with on at the top, off at the bottom, and 3 or 4 “scenes” in between.  The scenes are ones you or your lighting designer program during set up right at the keypad, or sometimes in a nearby closet.  Since most people have favorite light levels, the scenes make it easy to get back to those.  For example, in my own kitchen, we have 6 circuits, and use one of them alone,  the basic task lighting, about 75% of the time. While using those downlights, we seldom ever raise their light output to more than 60% of their maximum. (For incandescent or halogen sources, dimming greatly extends lamp life).  But we use ALL 6 circuits at different times for different events, and are glad we have them ready to go!

GET A GRIP!

Since hospital-treated injuries related to stairs or steps in 1994 were at 1,030,000, and falls cause 87% of the fractures in the elderly,  we all need to pay better attention to ways to make stairs safer. Not just for seniors, but for all of us at all times; whether tired, under the weather, under the influence, or simply wearing an unfamiliar pair of shoes on a familiar stair.

A 2x8 oak rail from the 80's was brought up to code by adding a floating 1 1/2" round steel pipe rail on top, that is continuous from basement to second floor.

Codes today ask for a continuous railing from top to bottom of a stair, at a height ofbetween 34 and 36 inches. Codes were less specific in 1982, when this townhome was designed. Then, the latest fashion was a simplified “handrail” of a 2×6 or 2×8. This one only came up to 31″, and the other problem with it was that it is impossible to really grip such a board. At best, you can pinch it, assuming you have hand strength.  While wanting to preserve the vintage look we wanted to greatly improve safety, so we designed a floating 1.5″ metal pipe rail, continuous from the basement all the way up the second floor, at 35″ above the treads. The owners and guest use the handrail all the time, as it falls naturally to hand when going up or down.

Want to take it a step further?  Do continuous railings on BOTH sides of a stairway, and double the safety.

TOTALLY TUBULAR (SKYLIGHTS)!

Next to the invention of sliced bread, I can think of nothing that has made life easier for the homeowner than the invention of tubular daylighting devices.  The concept is as old as the Egyptians, but it was Solatube International of Australia who patented and first marketed what we know today as TDD’s in 1986. Other manufacturers soon followed, with sizes ranging from 10 to 22 inches in diameter. Many have a mirror on the north side of the plastic bubble on the roof, to reflect maximum south sun down into the pipe, more sophisticated ones actually have tracking sensors that rotate the mirror to follow the sun throughout the day.

Prior to that , the only option for toplighting was a skylight, which by itself wasn’t much money, but add in the framing changes, insulation and drywall, and pretty soon you get up into the thousands, where a TDD can be installed for around $500-$700 in most homes.

Being landlocked in the middle of the floorplan was no hindrance to flooding the space with natural light, using a Velux Sun Tunnel.

They are perfect for stairways, hallways, laundry rooms, and bathrooms, like this inside bath in a remodel in a northern suburb of Denver by our firm with Reconstruction Experts, contractor, and Andrea Lawrence Wood, interior designer.  Here , one strategically placed 10” Sun Tunnel (by Velux) fills the bath with daylight, and lessens the need to turn on a light during the day. It threads its way down through rooftrusses to deliver it’s light at the ceiling.  One upgrade we insist on is insulation wrapping the tube, to avoid heat loss to the attic, or heat gain in the summer.

Tubular daylighting devices are easy to install and flash, small enough to work their way down through complicated roof framing, as they can be bent and run as much as 50 feet without losing effectiveness. Luckily, most attics are only going to require about 6 to 10 feet of run.  The most common reaction of homeowners is “Wow!” The most common reaction of guests is “How do I turn that light off in the bathroom?”  I consider TDD’s one of the most useful tools in my daylighting toolbox for any project.